Questions, answered.

Kitchens, bathrooms, basements, decks, composite decks, roofs, windows, siding, painting, flooring and tile. Most homeowners hire us for one of those. Plenty hire us for several at once, since one crew can keep the whole job moving.

Yes. Call (262) 758-7007 or send the form and we'll set up a time to look at the project. You get the scope and the price in writing, and the design work is free too, so you know what you're agreeing to before anything starts.

It depends on the size of the job, the materials you pick and what's behind the walls. We don't throw out numbers over the phone. We look at it first, then give you a written estimate you can actually plan around.

Yes. We take care of military members and veterans, senior citizens, teachers, 1st responders and people with disabilities. Mention it when you request your estimate and we'll go over how it applies to your project.

Twin Lakes and about 45 minutes around it, including Salem Lakes, Paddock Lake, Wilmot, Bristol, Pleasant Prairie, Kenosha, Racine, Burlington, Union Grove, Genoa City, Lake Geneva, Williams Bay, Elkhorn, Delavan, East Troy, Mukwonago, Antioch, Lake Villa and Gurnee. Not sure if you're in range? Put your ZIP in the checker on this page or give us a call.

A repaint is not a kitchen, and a kitchen is not a roof. We give you a realistic schedule with your estimate and tell you early if anything changes it, whether that's weather, materials or something we find behind a wall.

No. That's the point of hiring one crew. We handle the work from start to finish and keep one person as your point of contact, so you're not chasing five different people.

Yes. Pembroke Construction is licensed, insured and bonded. If you'd like to talk through our credentials before you hire us, just ask when we meet.

Call (262) 758-7007, email us, or hit the free estimate button on this page. Tell us what you're thinking about and we'll take it from there.

It depends on the work and on your municipality. Permits and inspections are handled through your local village, town or city, and the rules differ from one to the next. Swapping cabinets alone is not the same as moving plumbing, wiring or walls. We walk you through what your project needs before work starts.

Many homeowners do, but expect some disruption. The kitchen is out of service during demolition and installation, so people often set up a microwave, a small fridge and a coffee maker in another room. We talk through the order of work with you ahead of time, so you know when water and power will be off.

We start with the room and how you cook. As a general guide, NKBA suggests at least 42 inches of work aisle for one cook, 48 inches if two people cook together, and 36 inches for walkways. Our free designs let you see the options on paper before any cabinets are ordered.

Pick a ducted hood that vents outdoors. NKBA recommends at least 150 cfm for a ducted hood, and hoods that move more than 400 cfm can require makeup air. EPA also suggests running the hood while you cook and for 10 to 20 minutes afterward, and using the back burners when you can.

Yes. Federal EPA rules require paid contractors who disturb painted surfaces in pre-1978 homes to use lead-safe work practices, and the firm must be EPA-certified. Asbestos may also be present in older flooring, joint compound and insulation. Ask any contractor how they handle both, and do not scrape or sand old materials yourself.

Yes. Flooring, tile work and painting are part of what we do, so the new kitchen can blend into the rooms around it instead of stopping at a seam. One crew keeps the whole schedule in one place. Estimates are free, and we offer discounts for military, seniors, teachers, first responders and people with disabilities.

About an hour after a shower is a good rule, and a timer switch makes that easy. The fan should be ducted to the outdoors, not into the attic. ENERGY STAR guidance suggests a rating of at least 70 cfm for intermittent use and 3 sones or less, so the fan is quiet enough that you will actually run it.

No. Tile and grout are not waterproof on their own, so the waterproofing has to sit behind the tile, in the base and the walls. Many installers flood-test a shower base by plugging the drain and letting it hold water for hours before tiling. Ask any contractor how they waterproof and test.

It depends on the scope and on your municipality. Permits and inspections are handled through your local village, town or city. Swapping a vanity is different from moving a toilet or a shower drain. In Wisconsin, plumbing work needs a licensed master plumber in charge, and we walk you through the rest.

Yes. A step-free shower, a bench and grab bars can all help. Even if you do not need grab bars today, solid blocking inside the walls lets you add them later without opening the tile. We can build that into the free design. We also offer discounts for seniors and people with disabilities.

WaterSense is EPA's label for water-efficient products. Labeled showerheads are capped at 2.0 gallons per minute, while standard models typically use about 2.5. EPA has estimated that an average household could save over 2,300 gallons a year with them, plus some energy because less hot water is needed. Look for the label on fixtures you like.

Older homes can hide soft subfloor from long-term leaks, outdated plumbing or lead paint. Houses built before 1978 fall under EPA's lead-safe renovation rule for paid contractors. We open things up carefully, show you what we find and talk through the options before anything in the plan changes. You decide how to proceed.

If a basement is used for sleeping, Wisconsin's Uniform Dwelling Code calls for two exits placed apart from each other. The second can be an exterior door, a stairway to the floor above, or an egress window in each bedroom. The window must open without tools and have a clear opening of at least 20 by 24 inches, with its lowest point no more than 60 inches above the floor.

Yes. EPA recommends testing before a major renovation like finishing a basement, because radon-resistant methods are easier to add during the work, and then retesting afterward. The action level is 4 pCi/L. Kenosha County Public Health and the Walworth County Health Department both offer test kits. A common fix is a vent pipe with a fan.

We want to find the cause first. Common culprits are clogged gutters, soil that slopes toward the house and leaks. EPA suggests fixing leaks, improving grading and drying wet materials within 24 to 48 hours. Finishing over an unresolved water problem hides it until it gets worse, so we will tell you plainly what we see and what to address first.

The U.S. Department of Energy's Building America program favors rigid foam fully adhered to the concrete with sealed seams, or closed-cell spray foam. It advises keeping fiberglass batts and cellulose off foundation walls, since they can absorb moisture and stay damp, and avoiding plastic sheeting that can trap moisture inside the wall.

For finished living space, expect to. The details come from your municipality, and permits and inspections go through your village, town or city. We walk you through it. Some Wisconsin municipalities, such as the Village of Fox Crossing, inspect rough framing and trade work first, then insulation, then the finished space. Ask us which sequence applies to you.

Often, yes, but it takes planning. Where your drains and sewer line sit, plus floor level and ceiling height, decide what is practical. Wisconsin requires a licensed master plumber to be in charge of plumbing work, so ask any contractor who will handle it. A free design helps us show you what fits before you commit.

Usually, yes, but the rules come from your municipality. The Village of Fox Crossing, for one, requires a permit to build a deck and inspects the footings before the pour and again at the end. Other Wisconsin towns list decks in fee schedules or set value thresholds, and those amounts differ widely. Permits and inspections go through your local village, town or city. We confirm what applies to your address and walk you through it.

Wisconsin's deck standard puts footings at least 48 inches below grade, or below the frost line if that is deeper, on undisturbed or compacted soil without organic material. A footing within 5 feet of the house must match the house foundation depth. Only certain detached decks, such as pool, spa or patio decks, get an exception. We confirm the exact requirement with your municipality before digging.

Water can work its way behind siding and into the wall if the joint is not flashed. Wisconsin's deck standard calls for continuous flashing with a drip edge behind the ledger, fastened with 1/2-inch bolts or lag screws spaced by span. It says not to attach a ledger to brick veneer or a masonry chimney without engineering. A free-standing deck avoids the connection but needs its own footings. We can talk through which suits your house.

You can, but plan for it. If the window is an egress window for a basement bedroom, Wisconsin's code calls for a clear path out under the deck at least 36 inches high and 36 inches wide, no more than 15 feet long, ending in a yard or open space. Mention the window when you call so we can design around it.

Frozen ground makes footing work difficult, so many decks go in from spring through fall. If you want one for early summer, it helps to call in winter or early spring so design, permit and scheduling can happen first. Call (262) 758-7007 for a free written estimate and a free design.

It depends on how much upkeep you want and what look you prefer. Wood decks need ongoing cleaning and care, while composite boards usually need less, but they still need washing. Composite also expands and contracts more along its length than wood and often needs closer joist spacing. We will lay out both in your free written estimate so you can compare. We also offer discounts for military, seniors, teachers, first responders and people with disabilities.

No deck is maintenance free. Composite usually skips the staining and sealing that wood needs, but a Forest Products Laboratory release says periodic cleaning is needed to keep mold and mildew at bay, and Fine Homebuilding suggests a yearly wash with a hose, brush and mild soap. Dirt and debris left sitting can stain. Follow the board maker's cleaning instructions. We go over care when we hand the deck over.

Sometimes. The frame and footings have to be sound, and joist spacing has to suit the board, which varies by product and layout. Diagonal boards may need closer joists. We inspect the existing footings, ledger flashing, hangers and framing, tell you plainly what we find, and put any needed repairs in the written estimate before anything gets covered up.

They can. Fine Homebuilding found wood-plastic composites run somewhat hotter than wood, but color matters more, and any decking material gets uncomfortable on a hot, sunny day. Lighter colors help. Set samples out in the sun and touch them before you decide, and ask each maker about the surface. If bare feet matter to you, that test is worth doing.

Plan on it. Composite changes the boards, not the structure. Wisconsin's deck standard sets footings at least 48 inches below grade or below frost, whichever is deeper, and excuses only certain detached decks from frost-protected footings. Permit rules come from your municipality (Fox Crossing, for one, requires a permit to build a deck and inspects footings before the pour). We confirm both before work starts and walk you through the process from there.

That depends on the products you choose. Ask us to price wood and composite side by side in your free written estimate, so you see the difference for your own deck instead of a generic number. We also offer discounts for military, seniors, teachers, first responders and people with disabilities.

Ask which product they plan to use and to see the manufacturer's installation guide, and whether it is capped or uncapped. Ask how the frame will be spaced for that board, how ends and edges get finished, and how the ledger is flashed where the deck meets the house. A good answer is specific. We are glad to go through those points on your estimate.

It depends on your municipality. Some Wisconsin municipalities list reroofing among required permits, and others exempt it. Some ordinances also say that replacing more than 25 percent of a roof covering in a year means the whole covering has to meet code. Permits and inspections go through your local village, town or city, and we walk you through them.

Isolated damage, like a few lifted shingles or a failed flashing, can often be repaired. Widespread curling, bare spots, repeated leaks or rotted decking usually point toward replacement. Recovering over old shingles is an option only on a sound deck, and most codes allow no more than two roof coverings. We look at the roof and the attic, explain what we see and give a free written estimate. If a repair makes sense, we will say so.

Ice buildup at the eaves usually starts with heat leaking into the attic, which melts snow that then refreezes at the cold edge. Michigan State Extension and a University of Minnesota study point to air leaks, thin insulation and weak ventilation as the causes. Focus on Energy recommends R-49 or more in Wisconsin attics. An ice barrier membrane along the eaves helps stop leaks but does not cure the cause. Ask any roofer how they plan to address it on your house.

Ask about license and insurance (we are licensed, insured and bonded), and how they handle the deck, flashing, ice protection and ventilation. Ask what is going under the shingles at the eaves and in valleys, which wind class the shingle carries, and whether the written estimate lists it all. A specific, plain answer is a good sign. If a contractor will not put it in writing, keep looking.

Older homes can hide surprises, like thin or rotted sheathing, worn flashing and, in some cases, asbestos-cement roofing or shingles, which EPA lists among materials found in older houses. Do not cut, scrape or break suspect material yourself. A qualified professional can sample and test it, and we will talk through what we find before the plan changes.

Roofing goes on in many conditions, but cold, wet or icy weather can slow the work. Asphalt shingles get less flexible below about 40 degrees F and crack more easily, and their seal strips need warmth to bond, so crews sometimes hand-seal in cold weather. Spring through fall gives more room to schedule. A leak should not wait for the right season, though. Call (262) 758-7007 and we will talk through next steps.

It depends on your municipality and the scope of the job. Permits and inspections go through the local building department, and rules differ from town to town and between Wisconsin and Illinois. We walk you through what your town requires before work starts. Changing the size of an opening is a bigger step than swapping for the same size, so tell us early if you want that.

An insert goes inside the existing frame, so it is quicker and keeps your trim, but the old frame and whatever is behind it stay. Full-frame replacement goes out to the rough opening, so we can check for rot, flash the opening and fill the gap with low-expansion foam. Either way, ENERGY STAR advises sealing the space around the frame. We look at your frames and tell you which fits.

It can be in homes built before 1978. Under EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, anyone paid to disturb paint there must be a certified firm using lead-safe work practices, and window replacement is covered at any size. Those practices include taped plastic on floors, no open-flame burning, no heat guns above 1,100 degrees F and HEPA cleanup. Ask any contractor to show their certification.

The NFRC label lists U-factor (how easily heat passes through; lower is better in the cold), solar heat gain, visible transmittance, air leakage and condensation resistance. Compare whole-unit values, not center-of-glass. ENERGY STAR sets limits by climate zone. For its Northern zone, version 7.0 asks for a U-factor of 0.22 or lower with solar heat gain of at least 0.17. Check your county in its Climate Zone Finder.

Sometimes, depending on the weather and the job. Caulks and foams list a working temperature range on their labels, and we do not want a window sitting open to a hard freeze. When we schedule your project, we will tell you plainly what is realistic for the week we are talking about.

They can help, but not always. Condensation comes from indoor humidity meeting cold glass, and air leaks chill the glass further. Better glass and a tighter install keep it warmer, so it takes colder weather to cause fogging. Iowa State Extension suggests winter humidity near 30 to 40 percent, and ENERGY STAR advises venting dryers and kitchen and bath fans outdoors. We can talk through your fogging at the estimate.

A few cracked panels or one rotted corner can often be repaired. Widespread cracking, loose panels, soft wood behind the siding or damp interior walls point to a bigger problem. We look at the wall behind the siding, not only the surface, and tell you honestly which route makes sense when we give you the free written estimate.

It can. Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint underneath. EPA says the lead-safe rule can apply when siding removal disturbs more than 20 square feet of painted surface, and the work area then has to be contained so dust and debris stay put. Ask any contractor whether they are EPA lead-safe certified before work starts.

Vinyl can, with changes. The Polymeric Exteriors Council says to leave larger gaps at openings below 40 degrees and to cut slowly because the panels are brittle. Flashing tapes also struggle on cold, wet or frozen surfaces. We will tell you plainly when the weather is working against a job, and when it makes sense to wait.

Trade guidance says water gets behind siding even when it is installed well, pushed by wind and driven inward when the sun heats wet siding. If the sheathing or framing is wet or soft, new siding only hides the problem. We open the wall, repair what we find, then add the barrier and flashing before panels go up.

Permits and inspections go through your local municipality, and what each town asks for can differ with the size of the job. We walk you through what your town needs before work starts. Illinois towns follow different building rules than Wisconsin ones, so we check the correct rules for your address.

Yes, it makes dust that contains silica. OSHA recommends a vacuum dust collection setup for cutting fiber cement outdoors with a handheld saw, and manufacturer guidance says to cut outside and clean up with a HEPA vacuum or wet methods, not a broom. It is a fair question to put to any siding contractor.

It depends on the surface, the prep and the number of coats. Purdue Extension says one coat over a proper primer may last four to five years, while two topcoats can last up to ten. Fully exposed south and west walls should get two coats. Good prep matters at least as much as the paint itself.

Latex needs at least 50 degrees and should stay that warm for about two hours after application. Oil-based paint can go on at 40 degrees or more. Heavy dew on cool evenings can streak latex too. In practice that often means late spring through early fall, weather permitting, and we will tell you plainly if a day is not right.

Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. The EPA rule says anyone paid to disturb paint in those homes must be a certified firm using lead-safe work practices. Ask any contractor to show their EPA certification and to explain the lead-safe methods they will use. We will talk through your home's age at the estimate.

Moisture is the usual cause. Wood swells and shrinks with humidity and rain, damp wood blisters paint, and moisture moving out through a wall from inside can push the paint off. Dirty or weathered surfaces make it worse. That is why we spend so much time on repairs, cleaning and primer before any finish coat.

Water-based paints give off fewer fumes than oil-based ones. EPA advises running an exhaust fan in the room being painted and keeping ventilation going until two to three days after the job, and blocking return vents so fumes do not travel. Most emissions come in the first few days, so being out of the house during work hours helps.

Yes, it gets cleaned off first. EPA says not to paint over mold, because paint on mold is likely to peel. Fix the moisture problem, scrub hard surfaces with detergent and water, and let them dry completely. Never mix bleach with ammonia cleaners. Bare wood is then treated and primed so the finish has something solid to hold.

You cannot tell by looking unless it is labeled. Older vinyl floor tile, the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and the adhesives under them may contain asbestos. EPA says intact material is generally not a hazard, but it warns against sanding, scraping or sawing it, and advises a trained, accredited professional to inspect before remodeling. We flag suspect floors early so there are no surprises.

Sometimes, depending on both floors. If the old floor may contain asbestos, EPA's advice is not to sand or level it, and to cover it if possible. Otherwise the surface has to be solid, dry and flat. NWFA allows about 1/4 inch in 10 feet on a wood subfloor, and glued floors and thin vinyl are less forgiving. We check before promising anything.

Often not solid hardwood. NWFA says solid wood should not go below grade (a subfloor 3 inches or more below ground) unless the maker recommends it, while engineered wood can generally go above, on or below grade. Over a slab, NWFA calls for moisture testing and strongly recommends a vapor retarder. EPA adds that leaks and damp soil get fixed first. Vinyl plank made for damp rooms is another option.

Heating dries the air, and wood gives up moisture and shrinks, so small gaps can open between boards in winter. The woodfloors.org site says gaps that open in dry months and close in humid ones are seasonal and usually fine, and it suggests 60 to 80 degrees F and 30 to 50 percent humidity all year. Gaps that stay large when humidity rises deserve a professional's look.

Often, but the maker's directions come first. NWFA asks that heating, cooling and humidity controls run at least 5 days before wood is delivered, that wet work like drywall and paint be finished and dry, and that conditions stay steady during and after the install. It also says to avoid propane heaters, which add a lot of moisture to the air.

Laminate often has a composite wood core, and EPA regulates formaldehyde from composite wood products. It recommends buying products labeled TSCA Title VI compliant, and says ventilation and moderate heat and humidity help lower emissions, which tend to fade as products age. Ask to see the label on any composite product we quote you.

Yes. Tile and grout shed water, but they are not a seal, and the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation says water is stopped only by a waterproof barrier behind the tile. It notes the TCNA Handbook's shower-wall method points to a membrane meeting ANSI A118.10. Plumbing code calls for the floor to slope 1/4 to 1/2 inch per foot toward the drain. We build that part first and check it before any tile goes up.

Sometimes. The old surface has to be solid, flat and well bonded, within the same flatness limits as any base (about 1/4 inch in 10 feet, tighter for large tile), and the extra height has to work with doors, trim and transitions. In an older home, EPA advises leaving suspect flooring alone until a trained professional has inspected it. We look at it with you and give an honest answer.

Cracks often come from a base that moves or flexes, grout that was not packed fully into the joint, or too much water in the mix. TCNA recommends flexible joints where tile meets another plane or material, which is why corners get caulk, not grout. Dark spots are often mold or mildew. EPA says to fix the moisture first, scrub with detergent and water, and dry the area.

It can be. Many tile and stone products contain silica, and OSHA's silica rule calls for stationary masonry saws to have a built-in water feed that wets the blade. Cutting wet keeps most of the dust down, and wet cleanup beats dry sweeping. It is a fair question to put to any tile contractor.

Tile cannot flex the way wood can. TCNA calls L/360 (about 1/3 inch of sag over a 10-foot span) the traditional minimum for floor stiffness, and ANSI limits dips to about 1/4 inch in 10 feet, or 1/8 inch for large tile. Where the base falls short, backer board adds a rigid surface, and an uncoupling membrane lets tile and base move separately. We explain which fits your floor.

It depends on your municipality and on what the project includes. Setting new tile is one thing, and moving plumbing, walls or electrical is another. Permits and inspections go through your local municipality, and rules differ from town to town and between Wisconsin and Illinois. We walk you through what applies before we start.